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Chimney Inspection
Many homes in the United
States use fireplaces as a primary and secondary source of heat. It is
important that such items and associated flues and chimneys operate properly
and are well maintained, as they may pose a fire hazard. Every fireplace,
and every fossil fuel-burning appliance for that matter, must have a
separate flue. The exception is that a heating plant and a water heater can
use the same flue, provided they use the same fuel and the water heater
stove pipe enters above the flue of the heating plant.
Chimneys must extend at
least 2 feet higher than any portion of the roof or any structure within 10
feet, but must be not less than 3 feet above the point where the chimney
passes through the roof.
Masonry chimneys in modern
construction are normally lined with terra cotta liners. Terra cotta liners
deteriorate over time.
Fireplace flues, chimneys
and vent connectors should be inspected carefully, as they impact the
safety, health, welfare and comfort of the occupants.
Every fireplace must have a
separate flue. Fossil fuel-burning appliances should have separate flues.
There are exceptions. Multiple appliances are allowed to use the same flue
as long as the vent connector and the chimney flue can handle the volume of
exhaust from the appliances. The most common situation where this occurs is
when a heating appliance and a water heater use the same flue. The vent
connector from the water heater or appliance with the smaller burner should
enter the chimney flue above the heating appliance or appliance with the
larger burner.
Modern construction
requires liners in all masonry chimneys. However, there are thousands of
older homes that do not have lined chimneys. The fact that all modern
chimneys require linings is one of the reasons that chimney specialists
nearly always propose new linings. The older the chimney, the more likely it
may need a liner.
Determining the condition
of a chimney requires a thorough understanding of the functions of the
chimney and items that may impact its condition and functionality. Items
that impact condition include:
- Temperature of the
flue gases
- Quality and condition
of the brick
- Quality and condition
of the mortar, inside and outside of the chimney
- Workmanship – such as
mortar mix; the way it is connected to the masonry or frame structure;
depth and design of the foundation; and the skill level of the mason
- Length of the vent
connector (heating system)
Items that impact
functionality include:
- Workmanship – such as
throat and smoke-shelf; ratio sizes of the flue and firebox opening;
depth of the firebox; and damper installation.
- Location of the
chimney, as it relates to wind currents
- Design of the firebox,
throat and smoke chamber, etc.
- Height of the chimney
Masonry chimneys in modern
construction are normally lined with terra cotta liners.
Brick, solid block or
concrete that is 4˛ thick requires a fireclay liner. These liners are sized
for the fireplace or appliance they service and should be 5/8˛ thick.
Brick Problems in Chimneys
- Spalling brick.
Spalling occurs when moisture gets into the brick and freezes. This
causes the surface of the brick to fall off. The porosity and quality of
the brick, and the climate have a significant impact on spalling.
- Deteriorating brick.
This is usually a softer clay salmon brick that is designed for use on
the inside of an 8-inch thick wall. The deterioration is more complete
than the spalling brick. It is relatively easy to recognize due to its
orange color.
Cutting or chiseling the
problem bricks out and replacing them can repair these conditions. Cost
approx. $30.00 to $40.00 per brick with a $300.00 minimum. Placing cement
stucco over the problem bricks is an option, however, this would not be
recommended unless the appearance was not a concern.
Backdrafting
Signs of Fireplace Backdrafting
Signs of
backdrafting include:
- Smoke stains on the
outside of the firebox or below the mantle, etc.
- Smoke odors in the
house
There are other conditions
that, while they don’t identify a problem, should raise your level of
awareness and maybe prompt you to ask some questions.
- If a fireplace has not
been used in a number of years, it may be that the owners do not care
about the fireplace or that possibly there was a problem. If the
owner/occupant is home, ask if there was a problem with the fireplace.
- If the chimney height
is marginal, check the draft with a match or ask if there were problems
in the past.
- The presence of a
smoke shield should prompt a question. A smoke shield does not shield
smoke; it is a piece of metal about 4 inches deep and the width of the
firebox opening. It is installed across the top of the firebox and
reduces the size of the firebox, which improves the flue to firebox
ratio. If the throat above the damper is not relatively smooth, it may
also be an indication of a problem.
Common Defects
Inadequate wall
thickness:
-
Minimum thickness of firebrick is 2 inches
-
Minimum thickness of unlined chimney is 8 inches
-
Minimum thickness of lined chimneys is 4 inches
- Poor
liner or firebox joints
-
Separation of fireplace face and firebox
Improper chimney height should be at least 15 feet high; top at least 2
foot taller than any structure within 10 feet
- Flue
area should never be less than 1/12 of fireplace opening
-
Damper installed too low
-
Damper missing
-
Fireplace too large for flue
-
Inadequate draft
- Lack
of combustion air
Brick Chimneys
Chimneys
that are one brick thick and unlined are a fire hazard and must be reported.
A two-brick chimney, without a flue liner is acceptable as long as the
mortar and bricks are in good condition.
Metal flues for gas
appliances such as furnaces must have a cap on them to prevent weather and
animals from entering. Caps on masonry chimneys are cement/mortar and have
a tendency to crack.
(Additional brick chimney
conditions and concerns are outlined under masonry chimneys.)
Brick Problems in
Chimneys
- Spalling brick.
Spalling occurs when moisture gets into the brick and freezes. This
causes the surface of the brick to fall off. The porosity and quality
of the brick, and the climate have a significant impact on spalling.
- Deteriorating brick.
This is usually a softer clay salmon brick that is designed for use on
the inside of an 8-inch thick wall. The deterioration is more complete
than the spalling brick. It is relatively easy to recognize due to its
orange color.
Cutting or chiseling the
problem bricks out and replacing them can repair these conditions. Cost may
be $30.00 to $40.00 per brick with a $300.00 minimum. Placing cement stucco
over the problem bricks is an option, however, this would not be recommended
unless the appearance was not a concern.
Metal Chimneys
Single wall metal chimneys are
simply unacceptable. Metal chimneys serving appliances with flue gas
temperatures at the entrance to the chimney below 350 degrees should be
lined with an acid and condensate resistant metal or refractory material.
Clearances
Metal chimneys should have
enough clearance to avoid heating combustible materials to a temperature in
excess of 90 degrees above the ambient temperature.
- Exterior and
Interior. Wood frame or other combustible material—18 inches minimum.
- Exterior and
Interior. Metal chimney over 18˛ diameter—Non combustible materials—4
inches minimum. Exterior and Interior. Metal chimney 18˛ diameter or
less—Non combustible materials—2 inches minimum. Interior. Metal
chimneys must be enclosed in a continuous enclosure and maintain the
integrity of fire separations—1 hour rating in buildings up to 4
stories.
- Fire stops at floors,
walls and roofs must be made of entirely non-combustible materials. 9
inches is the typical clearance, however, it is 18 inches if galvanized
steel or approved corrosion-resistant metal is not used.
Specific Metal Chimney Concerns
Metal chimneys will
dissipate heat much quicker than masonry chimneys, even insulated metal
chimneys, however, to a lesser degree. This causes two issues, and both are
related to the draft.
1. The draft in metal
chimneys is more difficult to get started. The colder air in the chimney
reduces the ability of the smoke to rise, because it is heavier than the
smoke. Once the fire is going, the chimney is warmed; there is no problem
until the fire starts to go out and the air in the chimney cools.
2. When the fire goes out,
and only smoking embers remain, the cooler air starts to accumulate in the
top of the chimney. If the outside temperature is low enough, the cold air
may cause the last 30 to 45 minutes of smoke to back into the house.
This condition is worse
when the outside temperature is below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and when the
chimney is on the outside of the house. When the outside temperature is
above 30 degrees Fahrenheit, this is generally not a concern. There is also
less concern when the metal chimney goes through the interior of the house.
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